Spicemas, Grenada's carnival, reaches its climax on the second Monday and Tuesday of August, but a visitor who flies in on the Sunday sees only the final act. The build-up runs through July, the big competitions fill the preceding week and weekend, and J'ouvert begins in the dark early hours of Monday. How much of that you catch depends almost entirely on when you land.
This is a planning guide, not a history of the festival. It covers which days to be on the island for, how far ahead to book, where it makes sense to stay, and the practical decisions that separate an exhausting week from a great one. Confirm the official schedule with the Spicemas Corporation, which publishes the programme each year, as event days and venues can shift.
Which days matter, and what happens on each
The week before. Competitions and shows fill the evenings: calypso and soca monarch contests, steelband Panorama and a stream of fetes. This is when the music of the year is decided, and many Grenadians consider it the best part.
Dimanche Gras (Sunday). A night of finals, including the kings and queens of the bands. It runs late, and J'ouvert starts only a few hours after it ends.
J'ouvert (Monday, before dawn). Grenada's most famous carnival tradition: thousands of jab jab revellers covered in black oil, with chains and horns, alongside revellers in paint and mud, moving through St George's from the small hours to mid-morning. Wear clothes and shoes you will throw away.
Pageant and Monday Night Mas. Monday afternoon and evening bring the pageant, then Monday Night Mas, when bands parade with glowing lights and accessories through the dark streets.
Parade of the Bands (Tuesday). The costumed bands cross the judging points and move through St George's for most of the day. This is the colourful finale visitors picture when they think of carnival.
How long to stay and when to arrive
For a first Spicemas, arriving around the Wednesday or Thursday before carnival weekend and leaving on the Thursday after is a strong pattern. It gives you a few days to settle, see Panorama or a monarch final, and recover after Tuesday. Flights on the Monday and Tuesday themselves are best avoided: road closures in and around St George's make airport transfers slow, and you would miss the main events.
If you have ten days, consider adding the Carriacou Regatta Festival, which is traditionally held around the first weekend of August, a week or so before the mainland's carnival days. It is a very different event, built around workboat racing and community fun, and it pairs naturally with a week on the main island. Check the year's dates first, since the gap between the two events varies with the calendar, and remember that Carriacou is still rebuilding after Hurricane Beryl in 2024.
Leaving on the Wednesday after carnival is possible but tight. Many people sleep most of that day, and the last thing you want is an early check-out after two nights on the road.
What to book, and how early
Carnival week is the one time in the Grenadian year when nearly everything sells out. A sensible order of booking:
- Flights, as early as possible. Large numbers of Grenadians living in New York, Toronto and London fly home for carnival, and fares climb steadily from spring onward.
- Accommodation within easy reach of St George's. Rooms around Grand Anse, Morne Rouge and the town itself go first; several months ahead is not too early.
- A mas band costume, if you want to play mas on Tuesday. Bands launch their costume sections earlier in the year and popular sections sell out. Prices vary widely by band and section and include drinks and security on the road in many cases.
- A J'ouvert band or group, if you prefer to join an organised group with music, drinks and a meeting point rather than wandering alone.
- Fete tickets for the shows you most want, as the biggest events can sell out in advance.
- Airport transfers and any car hire, with the closures on Monday and Tuesday in mind.
Where to stay for carnival week
Location matters more during carnival than at any other time. The south-west, from Grand Anse to Morne Rouge and Lance aux Epines, is a short taxi ride to St George's and to the main venues, and it is where most visitors base themselves. Staying in the town itself puts you at the heart of J'ouvert and the parades, which suits committed revellers but means noise late into the night and early in the morning.
Bases further away, such as St David's, the east coast or the north, are cheaper and quieter but turn every event into a longer drive on congested roads, and taxis are scarce and pricier at peak times. If you do stay out of the south-west, arrange transport for the key nights in advance rather than hoping to find a car at 2am.
Villas shared by a group of friends are a popular solution, as is booking somewhere with a kitchen so you are not dependent on restaurants on the days when many staff are themselves on the road.
Mistakes first-timers make
Most carnival problems are logistical. The ones that come up again and again:
- Wearing anything you want to keep to J'ouvert. The black oil used by jab jab revellers does not wash out of clothes, shoes or bags, and it transfers to anyone nearby. Bring a phone pouch and old trainers.
- Underestimating heat and hours. Tuesday on the road can mean ten hours in the sun. Drink water between rum, eat properly and wear high-factor sun cream.
- Carrying valuables. Take a copy of your ID, a little cash and one card, kept on your body.
- Booking an early flight on Wednesday. Recovery takes longer than expected.
- Expecting normal opening hours. Banks, many shops and some restaurants close on carnival Monday and Tuesday. Get cash and groceries the week before.
- Photographing jab jab revellers too closely. Ask first, keep a distance, and expect to be oiled if you get in the way.
Pacing the week: a sample carnival plan
Wednesday or Thursday. Arrive, settle into your accommodation, buy groceries and withdraw cash. Spend the first day on the beach at Grand Anse or Morne Rouge and get used to the heat. Collect costumes or J'ouvert packages if your band has a distribution day.
Friday and Saturday. Choose one big night, such as Panorama or a monarch competition, and one fete. Rest by day. Saturday morning is a good time to see the market in St George's before the crowds and closures begin.
Sunday. Take it easy in the daytime. Dimanche Gras runs late, and if you plan to join J'ouvert, sleep in the early evening rather than staying out all night.
Monday. J'ouvert from before dawn, then shower, scrub and sleep. Head back out for the pageant or Monday Night Mas only if you have energy left.
Tuesday. Parade of the Bands: on the road with your band or watching from a spot along the route. Eat a proper breakfast and pace your drinks.
Wednesday onwards. Recovery. A quiet beach, a short boat trip or a drive up to Grand Etang is about as ambitious as most people get.
What carnival week costs, roughly
Spicemas is the most expensive week of the Grenadian summer for a visitor, and the costs stack up in a few predictable places. Accommodation is the largest: rooms that sell at low-season rates in July can be priced at or above winter peak in carnival week, especially close to St George's. Flights from New York, Toronto and London rise sharply as returning Grenadians fill the planes. A costume with a mas band is a separate, significant cost, and premium sections cost considerably more than basic ones. J'ouvert packages, fete tickets and taxi fares at night add up too.
Rather than rely on numbers that change every year, a practical approach is to price the room and flight first, then add the costume or J'ouvert package from the band's own launch, then budget generously for taxis and food. Carry Eastern Caribbean dollars in cash for street food, drinks and smaller vendors; the fixed rate is EC$2.70 to US$1, and US dollars are widely accepted, though change is usually given in EC.
Frequently asked questions
When is Spicemas held each year?
The main carnival days, J'ouvert, the pageant, Monday Night Mas and the Parade of the Bands, fall on the second Monday and Tuesday of August. Competitions and fetes fill the week before. The Spicemas Corporation publishes the full programme each year, so confirm dates before booking.
How far in advance should you book for Spicemas?
Book flights and accommodation as soon as you decide to go; several months ahead is sensible. Rooms close to St George's and the south-west coast sell out first, and airfares rise as diaspora travel peaks. Mas band costume sections can also sell out well before August.
Can visitors take part in J'ouvert?
Yes. Many visitors join J'ouvert, either independently or with an organised group that provides music, drinks and a meeting point. Expect to be covered in oil, paint or mud, wear clothes you will throw away, and keep valuables to a minimum.
Is carnival week a good time for a quiet holiday?
No. Roads close in St George's, music runs through the night, prices peak and many businesses close on the Monday and Tuesday. If you want a quiet August, choose a base well away from the capital or visit in another month.
Can you combine Spicemas with the Carriacou Regatta?
Often, yes. The Carriacou Regatta Festival is traditionally held around the start of August, about a week before the mainland's carnival days. Check both schedules for your year, book ferry or flight seats early, and allow for the more limited accommodation on Carriacou since Hurricane Beryl.
